Ebian

At えび庵 in Ikebukuro, shrimp is the focus from the first appetiser to the final dish, with its flavour explored throughout the meal. The menu brings out the distinct qualities of sweet shrimp, red shrimp and Tenji shrimp in a range of preparations, including sashimi, fried dishes and grilled dishes.

A good place to start is the shrimp sashimi platter, which lets you compare the varieties’ almost melting sweetness and pleasantly springy texture. After the sashimi, the shrimp heads are served deep-fried. Their shells turn crisp and fragrant, while the rich flavour of the roe-like miso inside makes them worth savouring down to the last bite.

Among the hot dishes, popular choices include shrimp wrapped in fine strands of pastry and fried until light, a generously sized fried shrimp, and garlic shrimp with a savoury hit of garlic. Other options draw on both Japanese and Western styles, including a rich, smooth shrimp and sea urchin cream gratin and shrimp shinjō wrapped in shiso and grilled until tender. There is plenty of variety to choose from according to taste.

To finish, shrimp-scented salt mazesoba comes with shredded white leek and nori, carrying the fragrant depth of shrimp broth through to the last bite. The restaurant has counter and table seating as well as private rooms. With all-you-can-drink plans available, it can suit a night of conversation with a group or a casual stop at the counter for a few shrimp dishes.